Province
|
Madain Saleh
| Approaching this ancient city in the afternoon presents you with a view of golden buttes, set against the distant lava tableland of Harrat al-Uwayrid. This is one of the great scenic experiences of Arabia |
 |
Known in ancient times as Hegra, or by its Arabic name al Hijr, Madain Saleh lies in glorious isolation outside of Al-Ula in north-west Saudi Arabia, between Tabuk and Madinah.
Nabataeans were an ancient people of north west Arabia. They spoke a form of late Aramaic, showing a heavy Arabic influence. Seven hundred years before the birth of the Prophet Mohammed (pbuh), the Nabataean Kingdom stretched from Damascus to the Red Sea. In 577BH (63), it was annexed by Rome and, in 533BH (106) the Emperor Trajan converted it into the Roman province of Arabia.
The Nabataeans were successful largely because they had the best engineers in the ancient world. They were able to harness the area's water supply through a network of ditches, channels and wells called qanats, some of which are still in use today.
The remains of Medain Saleh also display the impressive feats of engineering for which they are famous. Here you'll find more than 131 monumental tombs carved out of sheer rock faces, standing alone in an undulating sea of sand, with islands of weathered sandstone rocks, eroded and rippled into fantastic sculptural shapes.
The names given to the local features are Bedouin (rather than Nabataean) but have been adopted by the archaeoligists. Most tours of the site move clockwise around the area.
The first of the tombs you come to is Qasr al-Saneh. Although not particularly spectacular it does provide an introduction to the essential elements of the Nabatean funerary architecture: the impressive facade, the two five-step motifs, the inscriptions above the door way. Inside the tombs, slots can be found where the bodies lay.
Al Khuraymat presents 20 of the best preserved tombs in Madain Saleh. There are plenty of symbols which seem to tie in generations of cultural imagery from Abassyinians, Egyptians and others. Griffin-like figures with human heads, lions' bodies with wings, and rose-like patterns depicted on bowls, were used as part of the funeral rituals.
Mud brick houses, Nabatean well
Jabal Ithlib, stands dramatically on the sky-line to the north-east, surrounded by open space. As in Petra, in Jordan, this area is approached through a narrow gorge called the Siq.
Inside, a large open hall (Diwan) has been cut into the rock. It is flanked by a pair of pilasters, with stone benches running round the three inside walls. According to explorer Charles Doughty in 1305H (1888), there had been an architrave, which had fallen with the front of the ceiling. This chamber is pleasantly cool, and because it is facing north the sun never shines in and "a cool wind breathes there continually". There is a profound feeling of peace and tranquility here which is deeply awe-inspiring.
Climbing up up Jabal Ithlib provides a magnificent view over Medain Saleh.
Outside Qasr Al Bint two snakes are etched inside the triangular shape to represent the tomb guard. It is an example of Greek influence on Nabatean art. The building of this tomb has been abruptly abandoned, giving us insight into the construction which has been done from the top to the bottom.
The rosette on this doorway and other doorways represent a decorated dish used on religious occasions, and signifies that these premises are tombs.
Qasr Al Farid is a unique tomb carved from an isolated rock. Built for Haian Ibn Koza, this one is also unfinished. It faces west, and makes a striking monument in the afternoon light.
Qasr al-Sani
Madain Saleh is an important religious site mentioned in the Quran. In respect for Madain Saleh's religious sanctity, eating, drinking and sleeping here are prohibited.
About 6km north of Madain Saleh is a restored station on the Hejaz Railway.
Al-Ula Museum of Archaelogy and Ethnography
Tel: +966-(0)2-8841536
Sat - Wed: 8.30am - 2pm
Contains excellent displays of local geology and pilgrim routes through the area. Also a good introduction to Nabataean society.
Permits are required to stay here and these can be organized through hotels in Al-Ula.
Medain Saleh Hotel and Resort
Tel: +966-(0)2-884 2888
info@mshotel.com.sa
Arac Hotel Al-Ula
Tel: +966-(0)2-884 4444
hotelalula@arac.com.sa
There are many tour operators for the area.
Sadd al Samallaghi (Jeddah)
Tel: +966-(0)2-664 0638
Fax: +966-(0)2-6684963
ops@samallaghi.com
Golden Eagle Services (Riyadh)
Tel: +966-(0)1-492 2550
goldeneagletours@hotmail.com
Bin Zaid Travel (Riyadh)
Tel: +966-(0)1-4194688
Rehlat Travel (Riyadh)
Tel: +966-(0)1-466 0726 |
|
|
